
Align yourself with Non-Aligned History
Pivka is a small town about an hour and a half by train from the Slovenian capital, Ljubljana. The town is home to an extensive and immersive military history park that is well worth the train ride to visit.
Established in 2006, the park focuses mainly on the period from the lead-up to the Second World War to the establishment of Slovenia as an independent nation in 1991—effectively from just before the German occupation to the dissolution of the former Yugoslavia and the end of the Cold War in Europe.
When one thinks of the Cold War, it’s typically in terms of the Eastern and Western blocs, NATO versus the Warsaw Pact, and so on. However, there was also the Non-Aligned Movement (NAM), a nuanced “third way” that allowed member nations a greater degree of flexibility in trade and domestic development than strict allegiance to either East or West would have permitted. The Park of Military History does an excellent job of presenting the Non-Aligned Movement in context and explaining the former Yugoslavia’s role as a founding nation.
The non-aligned stance of the former Yugoslavia allowed the country to cultivate strong trade relations with Western nations while supporting its domestic industries. That flexibility is reflected in the eclectic nature of the park’s collection. Here you’ll find military machines and equipment from Czechoslovakia, France, Germany, Italy, Romania, the Soviet Union, Sweden, the United Kingdom, the United States, and others—mingling alongside an impressive selection of domestically produced gear.
At that, let’s take a look at the Park of Military History in Pivka:
From the Station to the Park
Almost as soon as you get off the train in Pivka, you’ll find a marked trail leading from the station to the park. Go through the station building, turn right as you exit, and before long you’ll see military bootprints and the international symbol for museums painted on the ground to mark the route.
The walk took me about ten minutes and wasn’t too strenuous, though the trail does have a notable incline, so your time may vary.
The heart of the park is the main building (Komanda), where you pay admission, and three display pavilions, in addition to an outdoor exhibit area. Once I had paid my admission, my first stop was the outdoor display, where the exhibits too large to go indoors are kept.
Among the larger exhibits, you’ll see a German-made steam locomotive from the Second World War. During the war, it was used by the occupying German forces; afterwards, it was given to the former Yugoslavia as a war reparation and played a critical role in rebuilding the nation in the post-war years.
There’s also a fast patrol boat of Italian origin that was used by the Slovenian Maritime Police from 1995 to 2021. You can tour the interior of the boat with a guide, but this must be reserved by email or phone ahead of time.

One outdoor exhibit worth a closer look is the IAR-93 Vultur strike aircraft.
In the 1970s, Yugoslavia and Romania jointly developed this aircraft. The IAR-93 Vultur was the Romanian variant, while the Yugoslav version was known as the J-22 Orao. Although Romania was a member of the Warsaw Pact at the time, it had ceased to be a Soviet satellite by the mid-1960s and thus had the autonomy to partake in such a project freely. Both versions were powered by a pair of British-designed Viper engines built under licence in both Romania and Yugoslavia.
The principal idea behind the aircraft was to provide both creator nations—and others in the Non-Aligned Movement—with a simple, credible combat aircraft that offered an alternative to products from either bloc.
Ultimately, the aircraft wasn’t used outside Romania and Yugoslavia, but it stands as a testament to the benefits of non-alignment in the Cold War—not only for the freedom it gave the two nations to collaborate without external oversight, but also for the flexibility it afforded them in sourcing components from suppliers of their choosing.
Today, most surviving examples are in museums, though a small fleet remains in service with the Serbian Air Force.
Armour and Artillery
Once I’d finished exploring the outdoor displays, I moved on to Pavilions B and C, which stand directly adjacent. These pavilions focus on armour and artillery, covering the Second World War through to the mid-1950s.
Inside, you’ll find vehicles and equipment not only of domestic origin but also from a variety of Allied nations. This diversity reflects the fact that the Yugoslav Partisans were one of the most effective resistance movements of the war and received considerable support from the Allies. You’ll also see German equipment that was captured and used by the Partisans.
Among the highlights: a Soviet T-34 tank sits alongside an American Sherman, a British Bren Gun Carrier, and the domestically designed M-48 mountain gun. Display cabinets feature smaller sidearms, gas masks, and other equipment.
There are also aviation elements here. Pavilion B contains the remains of a Royal Air Force Spitfire Mk IX that was shot down in September 1944 and excavated in 2019. The aircraft was based in Italy and on a mission to attack German ground targets when it was shot down over the outskirts of Ljubljana. The pilot, Sergeant Peter J. Clark, survived and spent the rest of the war as a prisoner.
Pavilion C includes two domestically designed trainer aircraft from the 1950s and 60s, including the SOKO 522. First flown in 1955, it served as the main primary trainer for the Yugoslav Air Force until 1978.

Tito’s Yugoslavia and the Road to Freedom
From Pavilion C, I made my way back through the outdoor display and past the Komanda building toward Pavilion A, which showcases Yugoslavia through the Cold War, its dissolution, and the founding of modern Slovenia in 1991.
The park itself is a piece of history: the buildings and grounds began life as an Italian army barracks in the interwar period. Until 1944, the western section of Slovenia that includes Pivka belonged to the Kingdom of Italy. From 1945 to 1991, the site served as a Yugoslav army barracks. It was eventually given to the municipality of Pivka by the Slovenian military on the condition that it be turned into a museum.
I entered Pavilion A via a lift to the upper level. The first exhibit is a well-organized and immersive timeline that takes you through the abolition of the Yugoslav monarchy and the formation of the Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia in 1945 under Josip Broz Tito (1892–1980).
Tito had led the Yugoslav Partisans during the war and envisioned a Communist Yugoslav state. Post-war relations between Tito and Josef Stalin were initially good but soured by 1948, as Tito’s ideas for Yugoslavia’s internal and foreign policies diverged from Soviet and Eastern Bloc interests.
The exhibit then traces the temporary warming of relations between Yugoslavia and the Soviet Union in the mid-to-late 1950s, followed by Yugoslavia’s emergence as a founding member of the Non-Aligned Movement in 1961.
As the timeline progresses, it explores the shifts in political power between the Yugoslav republics, as well as the ethnic tensions that led to the Yugoslav Wars (1991–2001). The most critical of these for Slovenia was the Ten-Day War (June–July 1991), in which the Territorial Defence of Slovenia and the Slovenian police successfully drove the Yugoslav army out of Slovenia—paving the way for independence. The exhibit also gives good context on the Territorial Defence organization as a forerunner to today’s Slovenian Armed Forces.
The final section shows photographs and videos from the independence celebrations. The next room cleverly contrasts this with a reconstructed 1991 living room—complete with a black-and-white cathode-ray tube television playing wartime news footage.
Air, Land, and Sea
From the domesticity of the 1991 living room, you step out onto a balcony overlooking the main display hall. Compared to the low-lit and somewhat claustrophobic timeline exhibit, the main hall is bright and spacious, illuminated by both natural and artificial light. I paused to let my eyes adjust before descending to the floor below.
One of the first exhibits you’ll encounter is a Gazelle helicopter. Designed in France but widely used by the Yugoslav military, over 100 Gazelles were licence-built in Yugoslavia. The one on display was Slovenia’s first military aircraft. If you look closely around the Slovenian national markings, you can see where the old Yugoslav insignia were painted over.
Nearby is a line of domestically designed BOV vehicles—Borbeno Oklopno Vozilo (Combat Armoured Vehicle). The BOV has been in production since 1985 and has adapted to a wide variety of roles over the years. The park’s collection includes versions for anti-aircraft operations as well as a police variant for riot control.
In the same section, you’ll find Soviet-made armoured vehicles painted in early Slovenian Armed Forces or Territorial Defence markings.
Other aviation exhibits include a MiG-21 fighter in Yugoslav Air Force markings and an Agusta-Bell AB.212 helicopter of the Slovenian police.
Rounding the corner, you come face to face with one of the park’s star attractions—an Una-class submarine named Zeta.
The Una class was a domestically developed special-operations submarine designed to operate in the northern Adriatic Sea and capable of infiltrating Italian ports. Manned by a crew of four, it could also carry six naval commandos.
Six Una-class submarines were built between 1985 and 1989. Plans for further improved models were abandoned after Yugoslavia’s breakup. Four of the six are known to survive in museums. You can tour the interior of Zeta, but advance reservation is required so a guide can accompany you.
The final section of the hall contains mostly Soviet or other Warsaw Pact vehicles, while above them are two American-designed fighter jets—the Republic F-84G Thunderjet and the North American F-86D Sabre—illustrating again how Yugoslavia’s non-aligned status enabled it to access Western technology.
After finishing in Pavilion A, I returned to the Komanda building to browse the well-stocked souvenir shop. As the park’s restaurant is in the same building, I enjoyed lunch there before heading back to the station for my train to Ljubljana.
Paying a Visit and Learning More
Getting from Ljubljana to Pivka by train is straightforward. I found the Slovenian Railways website easy to use for buying tickets and checking schedules; several direct trains run each day.
If you travel by car, there’s ample parking available, including electric vehicle charging and a parking area for motorhomes.
I was on a schedule the day I visited, so I didn’t have time to see everything. A trail connects the park to remnants of the Alpine Wall—a fortified defensive line Italy built in the 1930s—on nearby Primož Hill. The walk takes about 40 minutes according to the park’s website, but I couldn’t take a later train and still make my evening plans in Ljubljana. I also missed some of the smaller exhibits on the upper floors of the Komanda building.
I spent around three hours visiting the main display pavilions. As Slovenia’s largest military museum, it easily warrants a full day if your schedule allows.
To learn more:
- The official park website contains up-to-date information on admission prices, operating hours, and how to book tours of the police boat and submarine interiors.
- An article and photo report from the Croatian-based Achtung, Skyhawk! aviation website offers excellent insight into the histories and restorations of the F-86D Sabre, MiG-21, F-84G Thunderjet, and Gazelle aircraft in Pavilion A.
- As different people experience places differently, I also recommend an article from the Italian-based Paola Everywhere travel website, which follows the adventures of a single mother and her son. Her story gives a wonderful sense of the park’s family-friendly atmosphere.

















































































































































































































